Hints at How to Do Your Curved, Tight and Awkward Places with the Shoe Patcher Sewing Machine.
One can get your shoes laughing behind your backs on curvy or inaccessible seams. Shoes are not smooth canvases: they are a knot of curves, twists and patches, which curl into themselves. Unless you just purchased your brand new shoe patcher sewing machine, then the learning aspect of this machine will have you sharpening the toe on a pair of cowboy boots. So here is your eccentric handbook on how to make those curses into craft.
Know Your Patcher Arm and Presser Foot
A characteristic of most patchers is that they have a long, skinny arm which can reach into tight spaces but, even in their special design, some dexterity is needed to avoid missing a stitch or piling up the material. Look at the adjustable presser foot- it is not there without reason. Rotate it when it is required to give extra clearance particularly when one is attacking heel caps and the toe box.
Pro tip: To begin with, please feed a thin piece of leather between the presser foot before moving to the goldmine. You will discover the way the foot grabs or pulls without jeopardizing your next repair maestro.
Own Your Curves and Let Machine Give It to You
Violence is seldom of any use. Let the feed mechanism do the overhead of moving the material, and position the shoe with a gentle touch and not driving the shoe into position. Muscling does make it destroy stitches and strain the motor. You hear a weird thump or a resounding thwack? Stop. Re-set, and breathe.
This will probably assist you as you progress round to turn the shoe, to check it an inch especially when you well know that you may have to take off and replace it a dozen times as you continue around. This is not arm wrestling but more of a ball room dance.
Stitches Directions Tricks
It is much easier to pass around corners rather than backwards. On inside curves (where the line curves inwards) the stitching the shawl movement inwards–a difficult point on uppers, and at eyelets–you may make a trial by sewing in parts. It is sometimes better to do two, three quick passes rather than one dangerous continuous line. Stop and knot and start another seam as is necessary. Shoes, they are positioning tough–they will not give you much of a kick about not having the extra thread on, as long as it will hold a repair better.
Watch out Thread of the Pairing Needle
Consider stiffer seams using bonded nylon stock or even polyester thread, and use needle according to the thickness of repair. A 120/19 or 110/18 is general purpose to leather repair. Thin needles and break when pushed and thick needles make craters in your substance like the moon. Yikes.
Where a spool is used, feed it, wherever it is possible, with the spool vertical. The problem with tensions results in nesting or nesting of birds in trees only. To adjust your tension do sample stitches, particularly when you turn the shoe toward some odd angles.
Get Toe Box and Heel Cup Fix
Have you ever ever tried to poke the tiny sharp tip of a shoe under a normal sewing machine? The most patchers have a narrow arm that fits into those areas and even with that, there is a high tendency that you will reverse your technique. See what you can manage to use; tweezers, awls or even small wooden dowels to keep the fabric open as you guide and direct the shoe under the needle, with your hands.
In case it does not fit even over the free arm, make sure that the upper can be separated to some degree with parts sewed and glued back which is possible in most cases. This miraculously works on some boots and high top sneakers.
Drill the Scraps First
Take your patcher on scraps and hammered him out before you use it on a prize pair. Discover those shocks and twists. Acquaintance is as good as shoepolish. It is like riding a bike, it is not like you might jump to the traffic.
Unusual Problems? Odd Angles? Hand Curved Needles
To cover minute areas even your patcher is unable to reach, you must have a pack of the curved needles. Begin the seam with your patcher on places where you can access easily then continue with your hands in the innermost corners of the shoe. Dracula would cry on how little day light enters there.
Projects to Completely Master with a Patcher Machine About Shoe Repair
Repair broken heels and soles Patch up soles that are broken Patch up worn soles.
It is heels and soles which bear the blows. Cut a similar piece of either leather or rubber. Apply it with contact cement, treat it through your patcher. Begin on straight seams; when you feel confident increase it to curved lines, again reproducing the original pattern, a brogue or a wing tip etc.
Stitch broken Uppers
Athletic shoes, hiking boots and loafers all split seams on the uppers. This is a ceremony of owning a patcher. Take out loose ends and fit torn levels, and nest your patcher arm down deep within. Go slowly. After each inch count your stitch pattern–pivot a lot. If your patcher will permit of it, use a zig-zag or a double-stitch to make extra strong.
Add Elbow Room Add Stretch Panels
Then there are times when shoe simply needs to be a little loose such as bunion cavity or calf fitting in and compliment in boots. You may use stretch panels and elastic gussets with a patcher. On this area trace and then cut away the tight bit and then sew in your panel. It is a kind of higher shoe operation but it is worth waiting, you can achieve great effects.
Upsol Eyelets and Lacing Holes
Eyelets wear out over time and laces tear on them. Cut small pieces of hard leathers, pick thingy-thingy in new locations and sew in at whatever side of the eyelet, use the unrestricted arm of your patcher and then stamp on new holes. You will extend your sneakers or work boots even more years. It is foot-Botox.
